Serama-cockerels-group


GLOSSARY OF COMMON 'CHICKEN' TERMS

BANTAM - Small size chickens and cockerels.

BROODY - Term used for a chicken sitting tight on the nest in the hope of hatching some eggs, they will usually protest loudly and peck you if you try to put your hand underneath them.

CANDLE - Method of shining a strong light through an egg to determine if it is developing into a chick.

COCKEREL - Male bird.

COMB - The serrated pink/red fleshy part on the top of the hen or cockerels head. Much larger on the cockerels than hens.

CROP - First section of the digestive system - A 'pouch' where the food is stored at the base of the neck.  It can be clearly felt in the evening when full with food!

HYBRIDS - Chickens of mixed parents and grandparents selected for their productivity from the best strain

FERTILE EGGS - Eggs from chickens that have been with a cockerel - still fine to eat!

MOULT - Annual event when the feathers are shed and re-grown.  Usually occurs in the Autumn.

POINT OF LAY - Loose term for birds of approximately 16 weeks old.  The pullets do not generally lay until at least 20 weeks so can be a little misleading.

PULLETS - Female chickens under 1 year old, some people class chickens as pullets until they commence laying.  When over 1 year old (or when they begin laying depending on your train of thought) they become 'hens'.

PURE BREEDS - 'Pedigree' chickens who will always breed true (the chicks will resemble the parents). 

ROOST - Chickens at rest or sleeping - usually they should 'perch' on roosts (or sleep on poles above the ground).

SPUR -The nail like growths on the inside lower part of a cockerels legs.

WATTLES - The red fleshy parts hanging below the chickens chin/beak -much larger on cockerels than hens.


CHOOSING YOUR HENS

For welfare reasons we can only sell a minimum of two chickens together, and only in exceptional circumstances could we sell a single chicken.  If you are introducing them to an existing flock there is safety in numbers & more than one new hen is vital.  If you are starting from scratch, two birds would be the minimum you would need.

When you have picked your chicken we will check them a full health check with you and clip their wings (if required).  If you are new to chicken keeping we will happily run through chicken care with you. 

Some signs to look for when selecting your hens:

  1. Depending on their age, the birds combs should be a healthy dark red, however,  young birds will not yet have developed and may have a small, pale comb.
  2. Bright eyes with no signs of swelling surrounding them.  
  3. Clean nostrils with no discharge.  Whilst respiratory infections are common in chickens, don't choose a bird showing any respiratory symptoms.
  4. An alert, bright looking chicken.  Don't pick a hen who is hunched up, with fluffed up feathers or with her head tucked up under her wing. 
  5. No lice or mites. Check through the skin around the fluffy feathers near the  birds vent looking for any signs of lice or mites.
  6. Clean feathers around the vent with no loose droppings.
  7. Smooth legs with no raised scales.

SETTLING YOUR CHICKENS IN

It will take the hens a few days to imprint where home is so they will need to be kept in a run for a 5 or 6 days.

They need to perch up off the ground out of draughts, although some birds may need lifting up on to the perches for the first few nights to get the idea.

They will still have to sort out the new 'pecking order', and there may be some minor pecking and squawking for the first few days - just observe them to make sure no chickens are being seriously bullied - if you ever see blood remove the chicken immediately as the others will peck at blood incessantly (and to the death).  Watch for any smaller or timid hens -if a hen is being bullied she may be too nervous to eat and drink enough resulting in her getting weaker and in the worst case scenario, eventually dying.  If the hens have plenty of space to keep out of each other's way and are not bored, all should be well after the initial settling in period.

If you are introducing the hens to your existing birds they should be kept separate but within sight of each other for 2 weeks.  This is to quarantine them and give them a chance to settle in.  If you only have one house and run and have no choice but to put them in together, do not put them into the coop until it is dark and the original hens are roosting.  They will then wake up together in the morning and hopefully not be as shocked by each other, but it is essential you are on hand for the first few days to observe them and give them as much space as possible to avoid each other. 

Try to keep any stress to a minimum for the first few weeks to avoid any health problems.  

DOWNLOAD OUR GUIDE ON INTRODUCING NEW CHICKENS TO THE FLOCK


FEED

Layers pellets or mash should be available for the hens ad lib, there is no need to limit the amount they eat.  Chicken layers pellets or mash are their staple diet and provide all the nutrients needed including calcium to make the shells (they will also get calcium from oyster shell).   Try to hang up your feeder up to 12"off the ground inside the house (ensure if they stretch they can reach the food), it will stop the birds scratching it out all over the floor and wasting it, as well as discouraging mice.

The hens love mixed corn, but just feed it as a treat -it is fattening without providing all the elements they need - I throw them a handful every evening after they have eaten enough layers pellets, but it is not essential.

Layers-pellets Garvo-corn

They must also have access to clean water at all times - they drink more than you would expect - it takes a huge amount of water to produce an egg.

They will also need grit and oyster shell ideally in a small container or scatter some for them regularly. Chickens don't have teeth so they use the grit stored in their gizzards to grind their food.

grit-and-oyster-shell56

 


LAYING

When the chickens feel settled and they are old enough, they will start laying.  Expect hybrid chickens to lay at about 20-25 weeks, although it may be a bit earlier or later.  You can expect some very small, soft shelled or odd shaped eggs to start with, but they will become larger and more uniform as they settle.  Pure breed chickens can be later coming in to lay as they are slower maturing.

If your hens are already laying when you buy them, don't be surprised if  they stop laying for a week or two when they move house due to the stress of moving.

The hens may not lay where you intend them to initially - I usually just remove any eggs laid in the wrong place and put them into the proper nest boxes, (blocking off the original laying area) - they soon seem to get the idea and start laying where the eggs are.

Please be aware that they are not machines, and there will be periods of time when you may not get any eggs or very few eggs.  Expecting an egg every day off every hen is not realistic.

IMG 2829


TAMING THE BIRDS

The chickens may be quite nervous when you first get them.  They will calm down and most will get friendly but please be aware that they are all very different personalities, and whilst some will be trying to get on your lap after a few weeks, others need their own space and will prefer never to be handled, don't try and force unfriendly chickens to be handled as they will just become more nervous. 

If you do want very friendly, tame chickens try to bribe them with food.  After a few days they will run to you for food and if handled gently and quietly will soon be eating out of your hand.  It is so important to be calm, gentle and quiet around your chickens, they are prey animals and loud noises, shouting or sudden movements will stress them and make them wary of  humans.

I know children love to pick them up, but try to encourage them to be gentle and quiet around them and not to squeeze the chickens - a broken egg inside the bird would be fatal.


ROUTINE CARE 

A basic common routine would involve the following:

Early in the morning - Let out your hens, check they are all well.  Top up feeders and drinkers.

Dusk - Collect any eggs, check the hens again and close in overnight away from the fox.

Weekly - Clean out the hens house and run, wash out feeders and drinkers. Check the house for signs of red mite.

Monthly - Handle your hens to feel their weight. Check carefully for signs of lice, mites and scaly leg mite and treat as necessary. 

Quarterly - Worm your hens with Flubenvet mixed in with the feed.


VACCINATION PROGRAMME FOR HYBRID HENS

All our hybrids are comprehensively vaccinated. DOWNLOAD A COPY OF OUR VACCINATION PROGRAMME


I have tried to cover all the basics on this page and more detailed information on the Chicken Behaviour & Health page.  If you need any more information there are some excellent forums and web sites listed on the Links page as well as on our Pinterest page. Everyone who keeps chickens has their own remedies and cures, and new ideas and products are coming along all the time. Always check with your vet if you have any concerns.  

 

 

OPENING HOURS

Week commencing
18th September 2017

Our opening hours are updated weekly, but we are not a standard 'shop' & we are closed Sunday - Tuesday to enable us to breed, clean & care for all the birds and the farm, as well as have a few hours off!

Monday: CLOSED
Tuesday: CLOSED
Wednesday: 10 - 5pm
Thursday: 10 - 5pm
 Friday: 10 - 5pm
Saturday: 10 - 2pm
Sunday's: CLOSED

 

Contact Us

Telephone:
07830 176254

Email:
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Newland Grange,
Stocks Lane, Newland
Malvern, Worcestershire
WR13 5AZ